posted by Scott Hsu-Storaker at 4:51 AM
Over the past couple of years I have typed out a number of tutorials. I am finding, though, that I am reaching the limits of my expertise and have a hard time coming up with things that I can speak to with authority. So, I am going to be trying out something new, which I am calling a polyglog, short for low
poly work
log (don't ask me where the first "g" comes from, I just like that it sounds like "polyglot"). Think of it as an over-the-shoulder viewing of me at work. I'll try to write down what I was thinking as I was going along creating something so that you can see how I work. I am planning to take you through the creation of a complete model from beginning to end, but first I want to do a trial run just to see how one of these could turn out. I would very much like your feedback on this so that I can make the future series as useful as possible.
I'll start out with a
disclaimer. Warning. This is not a tutorial. I am not suggesting that this is the right way to do things. In fact, I think that the way I work can be excessively laborious. Proceed at your own risk.
Polyglog 0.1 -- Texturing Some MetalKhaine made this nice shovel model.

I turned it into this.

My general method for building up a texture is this:
1. Base color
2. Base texture
3. Lighting and shadow
4. Grime and wear
For starters, here's where I ended up on the texture for the upper face of the shovel. I'll stick to just this section.

I start out by creating a new layer set and making a layer mask around the edge of the uvmap template.

I lay down a base color -- in this case it is actually the base color for the wood handle. The template layer which is red lines on a white background is set to multiply.

I add a new layer in the set for the metal base color. The texture is some rubber stamped-up version of a piece of a photo I had. I may have even done a pattern fill with it, which is why it looks a bit regular and repetitive.

I lightened it up with a levels layer.

Next I added another, more scratchy layer, also from some random source material.

I added a levels adjustment layer in order to accentuate the bumpiness of the scrtaches.

Then I set the image layer to overlay and 12% opacity. It's subtle, but it breaks up the regularity of the original base.

Some fine tuning of the levels.

Next I added a new layer and filled it with a clouds filter and then scaled it down a little.

Set it to overlay.

And then reduced the opacity to 50%. Now the base is done. Much better than just simple flat steel blue gray color.

Now I start on the lighting, trying to make the direction of it as general as possible, mostly just to accentuate the shape of the item -- kind of a simplified faky-fake normal map. I added a new layer. Then, I filled it with a centerline gradient that goes from black in the center to transparent.

Then I set the layer to overlay and opacity of 50%. I use overlay a lot because it reacts with the underlying layers in a dynamic way. It slightly darkens the areas that are light, but really deepens the areas in the midtones and darks.

Next I created an oblong selection and used it to mask off part of the layer. This will be the raised area where the handle inserts into the bowl.

To further mark off this shape, I create a new layer and, using that previous oblong selection, I straight up draw a fat black line around the edge. Then I mess it up with an eraser brush that I like.

Set the opacity to 30% and it gives a nice edge.

Then I duplicated and flipped the layer for the other side. For some reason I needed to set the opacity to 25% for it to look right.

Now I wanted to hit the highlight around the edges. Edges always catch the most specular highlights. I created a new layer and then drew straight white lines around the edge of the area demarcated by the template. Then I messed it up with the eraser, dropping out entire sections and then I blurred it.

I set the layer to overlay and 73% opacity.

Here I started a new layer and again drew a white line, but with a thinner brush and did not blur it. Again, I messed it up with the eraser.

I kept this layer normal, but reduced the opacity to 39%.

Now for some softer light areas. On a new layer I added a regular gradient that went from white to transparent.

Set it to overlay and opacity of 42%. You can really see here how the overlay setting makes the light areas ligher but keeps the darker areas of the underlying bumpiness intact.

Next, I duplicated and flipped the layer.

Then I moved onto the highlight for the raised area. I added a new layer and filled it with a centerline gradient set to go from white to transparent.

And then adjusted the layer to overlay and 61% opacity.

I copied the layer, erased out some areas and then set the opacity to 28%. This is just a addendum to the previous layer for a more gradual effect.

This is the hotter part of the highlight -- a new layer with a white line and some erasing and set to overlay and 56% opacity. That's it for the lighting. Now to add some grime and wear.

First I wanted to accentuate the area where the two shapes meet -- the bowl of the shovel and the raised area where the handle inserts. I did this because this interface of shapes is where corrosion is most likely and where water may collect if it is left outside. I added a black to transparent gradient on a new layer and erased it out with a big chunky eraser.

Then I set it to overlay and opacity of 73%. I love how some blue pops out along the edge of the highlight.

Now for some real grime. I did a little bit of algorithmic painting on a new layer. This is the process of experimenting with a series of filter steps. Um, I probably did something like add clouds and find edges with some level adjustment. It looks pretty computer generated, but building up a few of these layers will make it feel more naturalistic.

Overlay and 11% and magic -- water damage from too many mornings in the dew.

I continue the building process here. This is a new layer with a clouds filter.

And set to overlay and 34% opacity. This serves to break up the regularity of the previous grime layer.

Now I want scrapes and scratches from years of digging. Again I use the process of algorithmic painting on a new layer. This is probably add noise and wind or motion blur, I forget. I think I messed with it manually a bit too.

Then I added a levels layer to pull out the dark lines a bit more.

Then I set the layer to overlay and 19% opacity. The scrapes feel a little bit more even than I wanted, but I decided to stick with it. That's it, done!

I hope this helps you see how I work. If you get one or two tips out of this, then it was worth my time. Please leave me feedback so that I can make the upcoming series as useful as possible.
Stay free.
~shs~